Clean up and hijack the BLUE and YELLOW wires. On the upper plug, follow the wires back to the cut you made earlier. On the passenger side of the steering wheel there is a plug, make sure it is disconnected. On the other side, "Next" -> Green // "Back" -> Blue Solder the "Down" from your PCB to the BLUE wire (Same Side) Solder the "UP" from your PCB to the GREEN wire (One Side Only) Solder the "COMMON GROUND" from your PCB to the YELLOW wires from each switch. Find where the two switches combine into a single output in the centre of the steering wheel and cut just before here, so that the switch wires are seperated. With the airbag removed you should be able to see the wires for the switch relay. The airbag should be able to be pulled out now Remove both covers and screwsĭisconnect both plugs on either side of the steering wheel behind the previously removed covers.
On either side of the steering wheel there is a plastic cover which covers a Torx Head Screw holding in the airbag. Remove your key surround, upper column cover and lower column cover to gain access to the steering column (5 Phillips head screws in Lower cover) IF YOU DONT HAVE THE TOOLS OR SKILL FOR THIS I MIGHT SELL A PRE-SOLDERED PCB FOR THOSE WHO WANT ONE (PM ME IF INTERESTED) You should now have 5 wires soldered to your board (4 actuation + 1 ground), as well as the 2 original power cables Solder a wire to the common ground for the board. Solder new wires to the actuation pin for each switch In my case the whole board shared a common ground between all switches (This can be done with a continuity tester) Test and notate which pins are Ground and which pins the actuation pin is. It should have a number of tactile switches on it and a power cable Take apart your Universal SWC and remove the PCB. PLEASE TEST THE CONTROLLER AND 3.5MM JACK IN YOUR HEADUNIT BEFORE INSTALLINGĪLL COLOURS AND PINS MIGHT BE DIFFERENT IN YOUR CAR SO PLEASE PLEASE PLEASE CHECK BEFORE YOUR CUT ANYTHING OPTIONAL: Desolderer (Expensive and doesnt need to be used but makes light work of desoldering PCB)ĪLL WIRE COLOURS THAT ARE UNDERLINED ARE THE STOCK WIRES, ALL IN ITALICS ARE THE WIRES I ADDED Universal Wired Steering Wheel Controller (What I used) (I MIGHT SELL PEOPLE JUST PCB's WITH THE WIRES PRE SOLDERED ECT IF YOU WANT ONE PM ME) Steering Wheel Control Harness (Most often comes with your stereo as a 3.5mm jack) Different Colour or Pin) SO PLEASE CHECK WITH A CONTINUITY TESTER FIRST ALL WIRES MAY NOT BE 100% REPRESENTATIVE OF YOUR CAR (ie. The notes of which wires are connected to what and the pin layout of the PCB. A video of the finished product AND a talkthrough of how it is all wired (I rambled a bit)ģ. Below is 3 things. REFER TO THESE INCASE OF UNSURE OR COMMENTġ. Using a pre-existing PCB and wiring it in on the "dash-side" of the steering column (Ribbon cable in wheel boss wouldn't support enough inputs) Wiring resistors inline and running wire from steering wheel back to head unit (A steering wheel rotates //2short) Using a 4-way transmitter and reciever (As seen in THIS video) (Would work but needlessly complex and many POF) This guide isn't a step-by-step walkthrough unfortunately because I have already installed the system into the car, I am writing this in retrospection so other people can also do this on their cars, as I have seen it asked about many times.įirst I'm going to cover other designs that I have seen which are either stupid, needlessly complex or just wont work as expected I must say that it was quite the bitch, and I went through many different designs before I had the final version, and this final version, in my opinion, is the best way of doing it. Hello everyone, BEFORE I START PLEASE ASK QUESTIONS IF YOU HAVE THEMįor a few months now I have been thinking about changing the controls on my old Triptronic steering wheel to audio controls and this weekend I actually sat down and did it.
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